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    • Best carabiner for munter hitch.

  • Best carabiner for munter hitch Super munter if you want even more friction. The OP Micro carabiners are great for accessories. Aug 17, 2024 · Step 1 Set Carabiners: Clip one of the carabiners to your harness, then clip another carabiner to the first one and close both gates. Contents hide […] HMS is the abbreviation of the German term “ Halbmastwurfsicherung ”, better known as half clove hitch belay or Munter hitch. The clove hitch is also two half-hitches. The Munter Hitch tends to "walk" to one side of the carabiner; placing the load on the spine side causes it to walk toward the spine (replacing the carabiner with an Edelrid Frog avoids the issue). Also learn a Munter hitch. Jan 8, 2019 · Thanks to its classic HMS/pear shape, this contender is adept at holding clove hitches and Munter hitches, important considerations if looking at locking carabiners that can perform well on multi-pitch climbs or on alpine routes where a Munter hitch may be a more efficient belay than a standard tube style device or a plaquette (auto-blocking belay device), or necessary if you happen to drop May 1, 2014 · Using the carabiner alone required that a Munter hitch be formed so the descent could be controlled. The large throat makes this an ideal carabiner for Munter hitch belays. The wide top bar of these carabiners allows the rope to run smoothly over them and gives lots of space to comfortably attach double ropes or tie a munter hitch. The document has moved here. The Raider Aluminum Straightgate Keylock is perfect for the JRB Garda Hitch footloop. The appropriate application of the knot is in rock climbing and canyoneering. Works as an emergency belay or single-rope rappel “device” Munter Hitch Advantages But you need to have 4 same carabiners. Sep 15, 2020 · HMS is German for “Halbmastwurf-Sicherung”, roughly a munter hitch (half mast hitch) belay. Alternative Names: Italian Hitch ; Crossing Hitch; Other Variations: Auto Locking Munter Hitch; Super Munter Hitch; Munter Mule Combo Applications: attaching yourself to an anchor, creating a carabiner block for a single-rope rappel, building anchors, attaching objects to the center of the rope The Clove Hitch is a useful knot for attaching the middle of the rope to an anchor. Jan 27, 2025 · Munter Mule Knot: Quick Tying Guide. Arborists can also use a Munter hitch for climbing purposes. Bring the end up and pass it to the right side. Then, create two loops side by side just as you would to start a clove hitch. However, the best option is an HMS locking carabiner. Since the Munter hitch is known for causing kinks and twists in the entire rope, it's best employed for short periods while rappelling. (Side note - belaying the second with a Munter hitch directly off the anchor might seem a little old-school, but it’s a very useful technique that every climber should know. The hitch twists the rope into snarls. The Münter hitch is useful as it is reversible—line can be fed in and out from the carabiner depending on the application. What is it: A knot that allows you to belay or rappel on a rope with nothing more than a single locking carabiner. HMS carabiners are pear-shaped and have been specifically developed for a belaying technique using no additional devices, which is frequently found in alpine climbing. Oct 12, 2023 · D carabiners were the second carabiner shape to exist commercially and their shape looked exactly like the letter D. With the brake strand, form a small loop near the carabiner. Square hinge end holds belay loop securely in place Dec 4, 2020 · Pear-shaped carabiners have a small runner’s end, a large gate-opening, and a very wide, gently rounded rope basket best suited for accommodating multiple items or bulkier gear. May 5, 2022 · I always run my friction hitch above the munter as demonstrated in the videos. Aug 20, 2023 · The Munter Hitch should only be used with large, locking, pear-shaped carabiners. How To Rappel With The Munter Hitch Method. For a budget-friendly option, we like the CAMP USA Photon Lock, which delivers a lightweight, user-friendly full-sized locker at a lower price. Nov 1, 2023 · Use a Munter hitch on your HMS carabiner. 7 out of 5 stars, 73 ratings Nov 8, 2024 · Amazon. You can also use two carabiners next to each other for extra safety. The name 'Munter hitch' is due to a Swiss mountain guide, Werner Munter, who popularised its use in mountaineering. Feb 16, 2023 · A super munter hitch involves passing the tail end of the rope around the loaded end and through the carabiner. It is a fast knot but prone to slipping under inconsistent pressure. Edelrid HMS Strike Triple FG Locking Carabiner review Best locking carabiners for sport climbing Lightweight aluminum carabiners for outdoor adventures Triple lock carabiners for enhanced safety Munter hitch belaying with Edelrid carabiners Durable carabiners for trad climbing Keylock nose design for snag-free usage Spring-loaded belay retainer features Top-rated carabiners Apr 7, 2010 · It has great gate clearance for easy clipping and works well with a munter hitch. If you’re curious, HMS stands for “Halbmastwurfsicherung,” which translates to “Munter Hitch” or “half clove hitch belay. Clove Hitch. This combination is a common way for climbers to anchor themselves at the belay station using the rope on multi-pitch climbs. We also want a carabiner which is wide and accommodates our friction hitch loops and the Munter. Munter Hitch Uses. Dec 6, 2024 · The carabiner (s) that I use for climbing are screw-gate and they are Black Diamond and Torch brands. Another benefit of the Super Munter Hitch is since the rope passes back over itself a second time, the rope does not get tangled. Jan 30, 2025 · Oval carabiners might not be the best for weight-conscious sport climbers, but their versatility and reliability make them a must-have for more technical climbs. Now, instead of nesting the Apr 26, 2022 · The munter hitch has many uses in the climbing world. Jan 1, 2024 · Tie a Munter hitch on them, and the hitch flips nicely back-and-forth. Some refer to it as the “HMS” carabiner as it is also ideal for use with a Munter hitch. To climbers, this knot is also known as HMS , the abbreviation for the German term Halbmastwurfsicherung , meaning half clove hitch belay . Finish this munter hitch with a mule-overhand combination to make a munter-mule-overhand (MMO). Feb 3, 2025 · When rappelling with a Munter hitch, attach the Munter to your harness using two opposing locking carabiners; Extend your Munter hitch using a sling, then add a “third-hand” rappel back-up, like a Prusik hitch; When climbing chimneys, consider attaching your belay device to your harness with an auto-locking carabiner Sep 24, 2023 · The basic Münter hitch is a “hitch” clipped into (ideally) a specific carabiner (more on this later) that provides friction on the line/rope when either rappelling or belaying. Make a loop in the rope and slip the loop into a locking carabiner. Jun 29, 2020 · I teach the Munter, Double Munter, and Super Munter to control different weight loads. It’s particularly useful when extra control is needed on descents. The Notch HMS and Petzl William Ball carabiners work great on both Aug 15, 2019 · As an HMS shaped locker, it is necessarily on the larger side, due to the fact that it needs to be able to hold a Munter-hitch, and is thus quite a bit larger than the most compact lockers we tested. ” It’s a word for carabiners designed to have rope threaded through them. The Petzl WILLIAM Ball Lock Carabiner is a large, pear-shape locking carabiner for belay stations and belaying with a Munter hitch. I prefer the Petzl Attache or Petzl William Locking Screwgate. 5. The main difference is that you 'lock-off' in the opposite direction (see below). Although it usually twists your ropes into a coiled mess, it provides an invaluable insurance policy in case you happen to drop your belay device, which can happen. cmcrescue. Gear efficient. The arrow for the path of the carabiner needs to be changed, or another twist in the left bight needs to be added. I would also encourage looking at using a munter hitch for rappel. Which is good advice but no one mentioned if you are using the guide mode and need to have the guide over the regular ATC, you also need to make sure you get a belay biner that can handle a Munter hitch. This version is designed with triple action gate opening and an automatic locking system. It works best in large pear shaped carabiners and should only be used with a locking carabiner. To tie the Super Munter Hitch, first tie a regular Munter Hitch (step 1). A Münter is a hitch that is tied onto a carabiner. Jul 29, 2019 · All you need is a pear shaped locking carabiner. For more about this knot, check out our article here: http://bit. This quick addition provides more friction control for a heavy load. Given the ability of the Super Munter to manage large loads it is worth considering its inclusion as a tie-off method for the standard Munter Hitch. Apr 18, 2014 · The Munter hitch should be in raise mode, so the hitch itself is flipped over the carabiner on the other side from the climber’s rope. Sep 19, 2018 · As always when using a Munter hitch, it’s best to use a large pear-shaped “HMS” belay carabiner with round metal, which helps minimize friction. 3. It starts very similar to a clove hitch and is easy to tie once learned. MUNTER HITCH. (That's right, you don't need a pear-shaped HMS carabiner for a Munter hitch. Jan 4, 2017 · The Munter Hitch Knot is often used to descend a rope through a locking carabiner or belay a second in situations when a different device is not available. Aug 2, 2016 · Today we're continuing our Knot of the Week HD series with the Munter Hitch. Is the Munter Hitch safe for beginners? Yes, the Munter Hitch is safe for beginners when tied correctly. Munter hitch; Names: Munter hitch, HMS, Italian hitch, Flip-Flop knot, and the first part of the knot is formed in the same manner as the Crossing hitch (ABoK #1818, #1725, #1797) Category: Hitch: Related: Half hitch, Zigzag Knot (ABoK #1195), Monster Munter: Releasing: Non-jamming: Typical use: Belaying: Caveat: Wears out the rope when used Munter Hitch ** Note: Picture below is incorrect. The added friction helps manage the rope smoothly in high-stress situations. Therefore, carabiners used for this belaying technique are called HMS carabiners. Their wide baskets make for easy setup and smooth feeding, and the width is also necessary if you ever have to belay off a Munter hitch. Great for outdoor sports and activities, it canconfidently hold a decent-sized rope or other equipment, thanks to the asymmetrical pear shape. May 7, 2025 · Our top pick overall is the Petzl Attache. The Munter hitch is a type of safety hitch and is technically not a real knot, but rather a brake loop. So it's not crazy to recommend aramid (Kevlar). That makes it easier to handle with cold, gloved hands. Apr 10, 2013 · Using a Munter Hitch. Aug 26, 2022 · Pear-shaped carabiners are wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, making them easy to grip and great for use with Munter hitch belay devices. The munter hitch is also known as the Italian hitch or crossing hitch. – Larger carabiner for use with manual rappelling devices to create more friction. (The Munter is a bi-directional hitch, so it is supposed to flip from one side to the other as you switch from raising to lowering. The load end should pass first round the spine side (not the opening side) of the carabiner. Sep 29, 2015 · Great capacity thanks to its large dimensions: - carabiner can hold a very large quantity of equipment - optimal shape for belaying with a Munter hitch Ergonomics: - shape designed for gripping with gloves on - asymmetrical pear shape facilitates opening and the manipulation of the locking system - Keylock system to avoid any involuntary This video illustrates how to rappel using a Munter hitch (aka Italian hitch) as a backup rappel method. Many climbers use it to connect directly to an anchor. I believe its a requirement that if you found yourself stopped halfway down on a rappel and you had your FULL body weight on your friction hitch, it's a requirement that you're able to break that friction hitch under the full weight of your body. Pear-shaped is an easier visual description. The Munter Hitch is best created using a large pear-shaped carabiner like a Petzle Attache or a Black Diamond Rock Lock. Learn how to do it at this article. ) Munter Hitch v/s Clove Hitch. Though simple to do, each step must be followed to a ‘T. This knot is useful for both abseiling and belaying. How to Tie the Carabiner Munter Hitch. The Petzl WILLIAM Carabiner is a large, pear-shape locking carabiner for belay stations and belaying with a Munter hitch. But it's also not necessary. For belaying a second there's the heart knot (i think it's called heart knot) which is also "self blocking". Form a second loop with the line crossing opposite the first loop. Mar 18, 2012 · Munter hitch is good to have in your bag of tricks. When tying a Munter it’s best to use an HMS karabiner, as this allows the hitch to run more smoothly than on a D shaped krab. Even for a standard pear-shaped 'biner, the Jake is big. Then practice with them at ground level before going up. If you plan on belaying with a munter, know that the lead strand should be on the same side as the spine of the carabiner in case of a fall. Can't find a sketch that shows it. 4. Feb 25, 2015 · Now attach a cord tie-off loop to the climber's end of the rope with a prusik hitch, and connect this loop to a locking carabiner. A fairly common arborist descent technique is to ride a Blake hitch tied in the end of the climbing line (so, usually a polyester-sheathed rope tied in a friction hitch around itself) down the line with no hardware descender in the system. To tie a munter hitch, first grab the rope where you’d normally load your belay device. It is used with a carabiner for single person belays. . We want a carabiner which has no edges inside the carabiner which could catch the cord and cause inappropriate loading. While belay devices offer added safety and control, the Munter Hitch’s versatility makes it a staple for climbers and outdoor adventurers. 2. Rappelling with the munter hitch is the same as belaying with the munter hitch. That is impossible with a normal Carabiner Wrap. Sep 28, 2018 · If I need to lower someone with a Munter-Hitch the wider “rope end” shape of the carabiner offers smoother lowering even when using thicker ropes. Practice tying them until you are comfortable with the hitch. Oct 1, 2020 · HMS carabiners can also be used to belay with a Munter Hitch, which does not require a belay device (if you happen to drop your belay device on a multi-pitch climb). Dec 31, 2007 · Note: If the prusik used to support the Munter hitch lowering system is a worn personal prusik that’s of questionable history, then consider adding a backup carabiner as shown in photo 6. Then take the The girth hitch can be useful in various application, like tying a throw line to a rope, but it is a really important knot if using a prusik loop when connecting the loop into the carabiner. There’s a crafty trick that makes your Munter hitch auto lock when belaying your second. Aug 15, 2019 · HMS, or pear-shaped lockers, have a wide basket and a narrow crotch. The hitch is simply a set of wraps using a rope or cord around an object, generally a round object like a pipe, pole or more commonly, a carabiner. The clove hitch is a safety knot and is ideal for a personal anchor. Climbers rely on this knot when using a belay device isn’t an option. Munter hitch, Italian hitch, Crossing hitch. ” How to Tie the Munter Hitch Usage. An excellent resource with this hitch along with knots,riggings,raising systems and more is "Rope Rescue Manual Field Guide" 3rd edition put out by CMC Rescue,www. When loaded, the Mule knot tends to slide down tight against the Munter Hitch Knot and can be somewhat difficult to undo. Using a Munter Hitch: Usually used to back up belays, the Munter Hitch is a viable option if you somehow find yourself in a scenario where you’ve only got one carabiner. It can be tied using a carabiner, making it a versatile tool for lowering climbers or rappelling. A standard ‘D Related Searches. You can tie it anywhere in a rope, and it allows a climber to control passage of the rope through a carabiner with the same accuracy of a belay device. Used with a belay device, the VaporLock's unique shape increases friction while rappelling with twin or half ropesand is compatible with munter hitches if you're using ropes skinnier than 9. Step 6: Lower the climber through the full length of rope X, the MMO on rope Y will now be holding the load. Dec 9, 2008 · The Munter is easily tied, with the knot being tested by simply pulling on either strand of the rope which will cause the hitch to reverse itself yet still work. The DMM Shadow HMS Screwgate Carabiner maximizes space to offer plenty of room for gear and knots. Large carabiners are ideal for accommodating a munter hitch or more than one strand of rope. Best carabiner for using the Munter Hitch for rappelling without a device (emergency use). This is a continuation of teaching the series of knots and skills need Sep 9, 2018 · Munter hitch. The Munter is a hitch that takes up a lot of space on the basket of the carabiner and needs to freely move without being pinched by the spine, hence the wide basket. (Try to avoid a Munter hitch unless you really have no other options, it can seriously twist your rope if you do it wrong. Read more : Omega Pacific Jake 3-Stage Quik-Lok review (1) Jun 10, 2014 · Everyone is saying get the ATC guide. Avoid auto-locking carabiners to facilitate tying the hitch onto the carabiner, something I demonstrate in this first video. Example: Petzl William Screw-Lock Carabiner. Mar 23, 2023 · Like was said above read through that thread and get familiar with the hitches that tend well and break well under load like Sticht, Cornell, Happy hands, etc. This is an important knot for climbers to know. Extra Large carabiners are used as master points or in rescue when they accommodate multiple other attachments. The HMS carabiner was purposely designed to be compatible with the Munter hitch as it has an enlarged top half of the carabiner with a wider cut out in the upper corner along the major axis to allow for better Jan 30, 2025 · Oval carabiners might not be the best for weight-conscious sport climbers, but their versatility and reliability make them a must-have for more technical climbs. To tie a Munter Mule Knot, start by wrapping the rope end around a carabiner two times. The offset gate gives a lot of clearance to get the 'biner clipped in. 5mm in diameter—making it advantageous for rigging anchors on big walls, while the screwgate can be operated with a single, gloved hand. Useful when you have accidentally dropped your belay device or need to do an emergency belay. Most climbers know this as a Munter hitch. This goes against a climber's natural reaction, so make sure to practise this technique well before using it. Apr 24, 2022 · The SH Membership has gone live. What is a Munter Hitch, and how does it relate to using a carabiner? A Munter Hitch is a knot that creates a friction hitch, allowing the belayer to control the rope effectively. Feb 12, 2020 · A favourite choice amongst beginner and intermediate climbers alike, this is the best carabiner for belay stations as it can easily accommodate a Munter Hitch knot. You can tie a clove hitch with two hands or with one. This is actually where the acronym “HMS” comes from — the German word for a Munter is (with typical German bombast): “Halbmastwurfsicherung. 1. Why it’s cool: This knot could save you if you drop your standard belay/rappel device. Nov 17, 2016 · Related: The closest carabiner to Petzl’s Attache is the William, which has the same pear-shape best used when belaying with a Munter Hitch, the same screw-lock system, and the same aluminum body. Jun 4, 2024 · The Munter Hitch is one of the most valuable knots used in climbing and every climber should become familiar with this versatile hitch. Metolius Element Locking Carabiner - Black | REI Co-op With a keylock nose and a compact size, the pear-shaped Metolius Element Locking Carabiner is ideal as your everyday belay carabiner for rock climbing. With any new skill we must answer the "why bother" question. The second video shows how this can be converted into an auto-locking Munter! Dec 5, 2024 · The Munter Hitch can be used to belay both a leader and second and rappel single or double ropes. LOCKING CLOSURE While there are a number of features that make a carabiner more suitable for belaying, the number one consideration is that a belay carabiner should always be a Jan 21, 2016 · Munter Hitch – Super Munter Tie-off. They even use an autoblock to back it up and force the downwards break Jun 10, 2011 · One note of caution, the rope should always be clipped cleanly through a carabiner on the head of the axe. Requirements: Use a carabiner large enough to allow the Munter Hitch Knot to be inverted through the carabiner when pulled. Oval Link (aka Quicklink, Maillon) Oval links, also known as Quicklinks or Maillons, are essentially screw-closed carabiners that offer increased strength and security. For belaying the leader the munter hitch is the best option really. Attach this locking carabiner to the loose rope coming from the belayer tie-in at the anchor; connect the carabiner and rope with a munter hitch, tied off with a mule knot and backed up with an overhand knot. At 73g, this locker is fairly light for a belay specific carabiner, but is quite a bit heavier than similarly shaped pear lockers. The deep top basket accommodates three clove hitches—using a rope less than 9. The rope should NEVER be set-up on the carabiner as a munter-hitch. The blue and orange carabiners on the image above are examples of pears. M. If you don’t even have sufficient carabiners to install the carabiner brake approach, you can utilize the munter hitch method. KONG H. The sharp bend is hard on rope, so a figure eight is better, and a portawrap is best. 4 days ago · The belay or HMS carabiner may be the most significant carabiner you would purchase. ’ If not it can place whomever is rappelling in grave danger. There was a major accident in Canada when this was done inappropriately, and the rope ran from the climber to a munter-hitch on the head of the axe and then up to the hip The Munter Hitch is an incredibly versatile knot. Step 3 Test and Go: Mar 26, 2025 · The Super Munter Hitch is a variation of the Munter Hitch that provides additional friction when belaying or lowering heavy loads. This type of carabiner was designed for easily setting up a munter hitch to belay or rappel with. All members can view the classifieds. Black Diamond's VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner checks in under two ounces and is best used for alpine climbing or setting up anchors. The hunter hitch method only uses 1 Feb 3, 2023 · The munter hitch is fast and easy to tie, and it allows you to execute a rappel with very little gear—just a single locking carabiner. Simple and easy to check. Quick Guide: Tying the Super Munter Hitch. Super Italian hitch, with the tail exiting on the preferred side of the carabiner. Main thing is to test these in a safe spot and making sure you have manageable friction before you’re hanging off a cliff. Munter Hitch: Step By Step Guide. Going Down In a real-life situation, you should carefully evaluate any attempt to get off a Usage The Munter Hitch is a simple knot, commonly used by climbers and cavers as part of a life-lining or belay system. We have used it several times in place of a device for rappelling, and it is the best backup system in case you drop your belay device on a long Hes talking about the second image in the first diagram, the one at the very top of the page which shows how to tie a basic munter. This gives the hitch plenty of room to set itself properly on the carabiner and insures maximum efficiency for both belaying and lowering or rappelling. Suggested HMS: PETZL – William, Locking Carabiner Jun 23, 2020 · An HMS carabiner is ALWAYS present in my rack. Jun 30, 2016 · Our largest belay and rappel locker, the Black Diamond RockLock carabiner features a keylock nose, is Munter Hitch compatible and can be operated with one hand. It should look like this (have the carabiner large end up). Practical for easily connecting multiple items, the ergonomics and Keylock system facilitate manipulations, even when wearing gloves. The Munter can also be combined when working a spar. S. It's advisable to use a pear-shaped locking carabiner, and try to avoid cross-loading it. Feb 2, 2019 · Second, you’re going to be lowering and rappelling on a munter hitch. Belaying with a munter hitch is similar to using an ATC: you must keep hold of the brake rope at all times. Jun 20, 2017 · I'd like to start sharing some tech tips on a weekly basis so I'm going to start with this Tuesdays Tech Tip with a super quick video showing how to tie a clove-hitch on the carabiner. It should look like this. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Aug 31, 2021 · HMS ‘biners tend to make the best belay carabiners. Dec 17, 2018 · Product Summary: Petzl William Carabiner - Large, Pear-Shaped Locking Carabiner for Belay Stations and Belaying on a Munter Hitch - Screw-Lock From PETZL 4. It’s important to check that this knot is tied correctly as it’s used for life-threatening situations. Like the plain Munter Hitch Knot, it is possible to flip the knot to take in slack with the tail. There are also some situations where a large locking carabiner can make a convenient easy-to-use “master-point” at the anchor when climbing in parties of 3 or more. Needs 2 same carabiners. The Munter Hitch provides a method for belaying and rappelling without a belay/rappel device. Moved Permanently. So what are the benefits of using the munter hitch over a traditional belay device? The munter hitch is multidirectional – meaning it can act both as a raising device and as a lowering device Mar 22, 2025 · Versatile—it can be pulled from either side of the hitch. Mar 28, 2025 · Tie the Munter hitch on a large locking carabiner to allow the knot to swivel, as it must when you are paying out and reeling in slack. The Petzl William Ball is excellent for the Munter. The main downside of the Super Munter is that it doesn't switch from belay to rappel (raising to lowering) very easily, but this isn't an issue for using it to rappel. Most climbers will never use this. However, the Super Munter Hitch Knot requires a double flip and has too much friction to make this useful as a climbing knot. Mar 2, 2016 · If you rappel using this hitch, be careful to use the Munter with the load strand close to the spine of the carabiner. This hitch only requires a rappel rope, a locking carabiner (preferably pear shaped), and 3 steps to follow to tie the Carabiner Munter Hitch. Less dependant on rope diameter. It allows you to go handsfree on belay and can be released and tied off when under tension. 4 days ago · The crossing hitch, or Italian hitch, is another name for the munter hitch. com Jun 27, 2017 · Following last week's tech tip of how to tie a clove-hitch on a carabiner this week we will look at tying a Munter-Hitch on the carabiner. I use this primarily for ra Nov 2, 2023 · The Super Munter Hitch is a belaying knot that’s useful for lowering heavy loads. Here's why tying a Munter-Hitch on the carabiner can improve your climbing: The often mentioned "You've dropped your… The Munter hitch, also known as the Italian hitch or the Crossing Hitch, is a simple knot, commonly used by climbers, cavers, and rescuers as part of a life-lining or belay system. The munter hitch is similar to the munter hitch for rappelling and belaying. Rock climbing; Caving; Abseiling; Rescuing by forming a part of a life-lining or belay system The Munter Hitch can function as a belay method without requiring a mechanical device. Compared to carabiner brake, the traditional backup rappel method, the Munter hitch rappel has these advantages: 1. An aluminium carabiner that was used to abseil with an Italian hitch several times, suffering severe wear damage. You can use the Münter as a descent control "device" (aka a "DCD") when lowering a load or rappelling, or you can use it as a belay device which allows you to take in slack while being ready to catch a sudden load. Next, take the standing end and pass it behind and around the working end. The Am'D is a good all-around locking carabiner that gives its users peace of mind thanks to an auto-locking twist lock closure system. The Munter Mule hitch is a combination of the Munter and Mule hitches. Step 5: Tie a munter hitch on an HMS locking carabiner at the anchor on rope Y, just before the knot. The advantages over the munter hitch is less stress on the rope. Red Flags/Rules: Not recommended for anything other than emergency use. Jan 28, 2023 · Another belaying carabiner, the Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock has everything you need to support yourself and your fellow climbers. With a compact shape and screw-lock locking system, the Petzl Attache carabiner is made for use in a variety of belay applications and is compatible with a Munter hitch, Petzl Verso and Petzl Reverso. The carabiner should have an H in a circle stamped on it somewhere. Practical for easily connecting multiple items, the locking mechanism and Keylock system facilitate handling while wearing gloves. The classic D shape is symmetrical and naturally sets the rope closer to the spine, putting the load on the spine (versus sharing the load with the weaker gate side, like an oval). I most commonly use it when climbing and don't have another option available. Jan 13, 2015 · At about ½ way down the rappel the student says he heard a click and suddenly the Munter morphed into a carabiner self-lower with maybe 5% of the friction of the Munter rappel. Use a friction hitch backup attached to the brake strand of the rope, and clip the hitch to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. See page for recommendations Münter Hitch. Be sure you know how to tie it, and how to lower on it. The carabiners above are more than enough. It is sometimes used in conjunction with a Prusik knot. As it is, you get a twist around the biner, not a munter Tie a Munter Hitch on a locking carabiner by passing the rope through, twisting once, and clipping the loop back. Twists the rope; Produces excessive friction and heat on carabiners; Can accidentally open the lock in the carabiner if not set up properly; Other Variations Munter Mule Hitch Sep 20, 2018 · So an “HMS” carabiner is, roughly, the “half clove hitch belay” carabiner, a large, locking pear-shaped carabiner, suitable for belaying with a Munter hitch. ) Rotates through loaded anchors, pitons, clove hitches, and other attachment points; doing this can be a problem with some D / asymmetric carabiners. Thy There are dozens of knots that might be worth learning as a climber, but for the most part, you can get up and down any climb on Earth with just these basic, essential knots—The Figure-8 Retraced, Girth Hitch, Clove Hitch, Munter Hitch, Double Fisherman’s, Prusik and Euro Death Knot. Pear-shaped carabiners are the weakest but have the largest gate opening, making them ideal for connecting large devices such as ropes. Apr 15, 2020 · The RockLock Twistlock is an HMS or pear style locker, which means it is designed to be compatible with a Munter hitch. Make sure the strand carrying the load is next to the spine of the carabiner. Dec 17, 2024 · That’s when the Munter proved to be above the stitch, all you need is a pear-shaped carabiner. ) When belaying with a mechanical assisted braking device like the popular Petzl Grigri, many climbers prefer a more compact approach and go for a D shaped locker . The clove hitch remains fixed, providing an anchor whereas the Munter hitch moves providing belay. An important knot that allows you to belay without a belay device. The Munter Hitch severely kinks the rope, especially in Nov 16, 2016 · Best Applications. The first and most important thing to know about a munter hitch is that the brake position is opposite from that of an ATC, Gri-Gri, or Figure 8. Slip second loop into the carabiner and lock carabiner. It is used for protecting the lead and follower and when lowering down the climbing partner, and works best in a pear-shaped HMS carabiner. A munter hitch is a simple knot that gives some friction along with manually pulling or feeding through a rope. ly/2aLsTOlIf you Apr 26, 2013 · The Jake is a "throat-y," 3-stage auto locking aluminum 'biner. By having a larger rounded section they also are a good choice for a clove hitch. Its innovative slider lock system allows for easy one-handed operation and can be locked in the closed position for added safety. How to do it. Why Learn the Munter Hitch? Its carabiner-based design offers quick, effective friction control. Works great with an ATC style or Figure 8 descender. This technique can be used with a special "pear-shaped" HMS locking carabiner, or any locking carabiner wide enough to take two turns of the rope. You can also double carabiner to increase friction on a regular atc. Rather than opening the carabiner to complete the second Munter Hitch, pass a long bight through and then complete the tie-off with two half hitches. Italian hitch, with the tail exiting on the preferred side of the carabiner. Step 2 Hitch: Into the top carabiner tie an Italian/Munter hitch. The Girth hitch prevents the loop moving around within the carabiner to take away the risk of the cord rubbing open the safety gate. This hitch works best on a large pear shaped locking Oct 15, 2021 · Load-carrying: Many industries, including arborists and tower technicians, employ a Munter hitch to lower moderate to heavy loads. Next, form two loops with the rope and bring the right loop through the left loop. com : Petzl William Carabiner - Large, Pear-Shaped Locking Carabiner for Belay Stations and Belaying on a Munter Hitch - Screw-Lock - 3-Pack : Sports & Outdoors A Super Munter will provide additional friction (great for skinny ropes), and minimize twisting - it's basically a Munter on a Munter and the twists counter each other. Braking part of the rope should not be on the same side as the gate of the carabiner. HMS stands for halb mastwurf sicherung, or the half clove hitch belay. Despite the Munter hitch’s utility, only use it in a pinch. The William is bigger and heavier, and better suited to heavy work, while the more compact Attache is more versatile for regular or daily use. Having a couple of these large D-shaped carabiners for use at anchors and for belaying makes life a lot easier and less cluttered. A number of videos and blogs suggest that the Munter should be tied with the load strand close to the gate and the break position down towards the hip. When a carabiner is being used for our primary life-sustaining connection to a rope (although screw-gate carabiners were the Oct 18, 2019 · If you drop your rappel device or just forget to bring it, knowing this variation of the old-school carabiner brake can come in handy. While Werner Munter didn’t invent the hitch, a few Italian’s did in the 1950s, he was the one who popularized it in the 1970s and why it bears his name. And forget those old-school designated waist and leg prusiks ; you can easily ascend a rope with the gear shown above. For the Munter, the brake position, ie the position with the most friction, is when the brake strand is parallel to the load strand. JRB prefers using a Munter Friction Hitch for Rappel, requiring only a large, pear shaped carabiner to serve as the friction device. A traditional HMS or Pear shape is best. It is strong, lightweight, versatile, and offers large gate clearance for easy clipping. If the The Edelrid HMS Strike Slider Screw Lock Carabiner is an excellent choice for belaying with a Munter hitch. Carabiners come in all kinds of different shapes and sizes, but The carabiners on this page are recommended by JRB for a variety of applications. However, in a high-load or heavy circumstance, you can solve the kinks by increasing one or more spins of the knot to form a Super Munter. Military and rescue: The Munter hitch is adequate for both military and rescue purposes because of its simplicity and ability to navigate steep terrain There are many tutorials on tying a one handed Munter hitch, but I have not seen any about tying them directly with the carabiner. Pull the brake strand to set the Munter Hitch, ensuring proper friction. Oct 19, 1999 · The Munter Hitch is a very simple hitch. Tying. The Munter Hitch is a half clove hitch belay hitch, which allows the user to apply friction descent just by using a rope and carabiner. Then, take the loop to the right side and bring it through the formed loop. A larger carabiner is recommended to allow the hitch to invert through the carabiner when pulled. The munter hitch method is useful if you don’t have enough carabiners to set up the carabiner brake method. For example, you accidentally dropped your rappel or belay device. The colors, I-beam construction, and twist-lock gate make this one of the cooler locking carabiners. Its shape and traditional screw-gate are perfect for building a munter hitch or a clove hitch. Dec 15, 2021 · Are there specific carabiners for belaying from above? In principle, any locking carabiner can be used to belay from above. The Munter Hitch essentially involves looping the rope around your carabiner in such a way that you can create friction by pulling it in one direction and decrease friction Feb 29, 2024 · This shape also allows for a munter hitch (a RARELY used, but often mentioned hitch that allows you to belay without a belay device. It is a belay device and crucial self rescue skill that all climbers venturing outdoors should know. Does not rely on oval carabiners. BORIS LORENCIC (Slovenia) I mostly use it for belaying and rappeling. It is an ideal locking biner for winter because it is one of the largest pear-shaped biners on the market. The Munter Hitch is used to manage rope friction for belaying or rappelling in climbing and rescue. Uses. It's easy to untie after taking a heavy load, and quickly unravels when you unclip it from the carabiner. The quality of the materials combined with its lightness make this carabiner among the best on the market. Fortunately the student, a recent scramble grad with some level of experience in our emergency lowering, kept his wits and essentially lowered himself the remaining 15 Munter hitch is common and works well. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. MEGA K6G. I have several non-locking carabiners that I use on the mollie loops of my Cruzr saddle for accessories. Clove hitch. Another instance, rappelling from a long distance with a Munter would alleviate some of the excess friction the hitch or device would see and help elongate the lifespan. Oct 27, 2019 · It has a fat round profile which would be great for rappelling down in an emergency using a Munter hitch if you know how. Both the Munter Hitch and Super Munter Hitch require an HMS ‘pear shape’ carabiner such as the Rock Exotica Pirate Carabiner to work properly. One can only use one locking carabiner or two non-locking May 11, 2015 · The munter is a slightly confusing knot to tie using still photos, hence why I used the photo above. ABOK: #1818. Feb 1, 2022 · Example: Metolius Element Keylock Carabiner. While people rarely belay using a Munter hitch these days, it can be very helpful to know how to in case you drop your belay or rappel device, and it requires a large, rounded basket for optimal function. The Munter Hitch can be inverted to feed rope in the other direction, in which case it takes on the form shown in the small figure to the right. I have a Petzl Attache (large pear shaped) carabiner that I use, specifically for rappelling with a Munter Hitch. Extra Large Carabiners. The Super Munter Hitch Knot is also known as the Double Munter and the Monster Munter. Jun 23, 2020 · An HMS carabiner is ALWAYS present in my rack. Third, this requires a large diameter HMS, pear-shaped locking belay carabiner. It ties quickly on a carabiner, offering simple and effective friction control for descents and load handling. Color: Green with EWO logo Bridge Carabiners. It starts with a Type H or HMS connector designed for dynamic belaying using a Munter Hitch or belay device. ) Apr 6, 2025 · A Super Munter Hitch knot is tied by making a regular Munter Hitch by slipping a loop into a carabiner, and then forming a second loop with the line crossing opposite the first loop and slipping the second loop into the carabiner. It also has other common names, like the Monster Munter Hitch, Double Munter Hitch, Super Italian Hitch, and Super Crossing Hitch. The Clove Hitch allows you to secure a rope in place on a carabiner. Dec 18, 2017 · They also allow for building a munter hitch. Works in snowy or icy ropes effectively; Cons. 5mm. ogvqxky vzwal bkhwol nobg jgxaen eqrrd bkil vnmmz lesgra cchwz